Fashion designer Sabīne Skarule continues a dialogue between Baltic cultural heritage and contemporary clothing design in the Skarule’s Autumn–Winter 2025 collection. The work is particularly inspired by Latvian traditions, beliefs, and superstitions, which, in the designer’s words, are «understood only by locals, without the need for explanation». The collection is defined by natural materials and a restrained colour palette, with a special emphasis on what she calls the «Riga Grey» tone.
Sabīne Skarule, the founder of Skarule, notes that none of her collections are created «entirely from scratch», but rather grow out of a long-term process of personal research and discovery. «My work is a continuous conversation with myself, with materials, and with the people around me. Moods shift, techniques develop, but the ideas always continue one another in some form,» she explains.
The new Skarule 2025 Autumn–Winter collection, the brand’s sixth, extends this dialogue between Baltic cultural heritage and contemporary design. At its foundation lies Skarule’s characteristic interest in craft, authenticity, and «intentional making». «I believe in slow fashion — in an approach that treats both people and the environment with respect, creating garments with stories that outlive passing trends.» Colour-wise, the new collection is more subdued than previous ones. The familiar «Riga Grey» plays a central role, enlivened through rich textures and technical detailing. Classic black-and-white combinations dominate, while traditional techniques — knitting, braiding, crochet, and weaving — merge with experimental approaches to create a «bridge between past and present». Among the pieces are a voluminous leather jacket inspired by the silhouette of a traditional men’s shirt, as well as tops, dresses, and jackets featuring lace embroidery and crochet details. The materials used — linen, cotton, wool, and leather — are natural and robust, connected to the designer’s enduring focus on the feeling of home.
Sabīne describes «Baltic nostalgia» as a guiding theme in her work and pays close attention to the identity of the region, which is rooted in its cultural heritage. She is inspired by Latvian traditions, beliefs, and superstitions that, as she puts it, «are understood only by locals, without the need for explanation». She believes these elements, though often subtle, have a vivid impact on daily life. As an example, the designer recalls an episode from her own experience: «On New Year’s Eve, Indriķis [Skarule’s husband, the artist Indriķis Ģelzis — V.V.] called my mum and asked if she had fish scales for us again this year. She had forgotten about them, so she dried them with an iron, wrapped them in newspaper, and sent them to us with the help of a taxi driver so they would reach us in time. At that moment, it all felt completely normal, but when I shared the story with friends abroad, the slight confusion on their faces made me smile,» Sabīne remembers.
It was Sabīne’s mum who first introduced her, as a child, to knitters, crocheters, and seamstresses. «I have been drawn to craftsmanship since childhood. I grew up in a world where handwork was not only a value, but a necessity. In 1990s Riga, you couldn’t simply buy everything you needed; choices were limited, so we made things ourselves. I learned sketching, designing, and collaborating with craftspeople early on — how to create a garment out of almost nothing.» Since the founding of Skarule, the use of handwork in collections has been a deliberate and carefully considered decision. Although technologies that influence the fashion industry are familiar to her, «the human factor and the sense of presence are irreplaceable — no algorithm can truly substitute for that». Often, ideas for new work emerge through collaboration with artisans and handcraft specialists. «In that sense, the idea and the making happen simultaneously — as a living, breathing dialogue, first between myself and the craftsperson, and later between us and the wearer.»
While creating the Skarule 2025 Autumn–Winter collection, Sabīne also reflected on traditional bridal dowry chests and the customs surrounding them. «I love the idea that actions and objects carry meaning. A garment is not just clothing that you put on and later discard. It becomes a message. Just like a handmade tablecloth that demands a particular attitude — a respect that we pass on. These are the things that outlive us, preserving time, care, and memory.»
The latest Skarule collection was first presented during Paris Fashion Week this March, through the agency–showroom Vòis. Shortly before that, The New York Times fashion journalist Kins Woo named Sabīne Skarule among the most important emerging designers to watch this year, while Business of Fashion featured her creations alongside global fashion leaders. Recently, Sabīne also took part in the exhibition Wool Skirts, dedicated to woollen skirts and held at the New York gallery Sudestada.
From December 6 to January 11, the exhibition Traces will be on view at Kim? Contemporary Art Centre in Riga, featuring Sabīne Skarule together with photographer Sarah Blais and fashion stylist Monika Tatalovic. The exhibition will be complemented by installations from artist Haleimah Darwish, as well as a Skarule catalogue titled Traces created by design studio Vrints–Kolsteren, and an improvised stand offering Skarule garments and accessories.
Viedokļi